The conclusion appeared imminent, yet the timing was unexpected. Just nineteen days prior to the upcoming Gucci show scheduled for February 25 during Milan Fashion Week, the Florence-based brand revealed its decision to part ways with its creative director, Sabato de Sarno. Typically, such announcements are made following a final show, allowing the designer an opportunity for a proper farewell. Additionally, it is uncommon for a designer to be dismissed before fulfilling three years of their contract.
The 41-year-old Italian assumed his role at Gucci in the spring of 2023, unveiling his inaugural collection in September of that year. While it was marked by a minimalist approach that some found lacking, initial efforts often face challenges. Unfortunately, subsequent presentations did not compensate for this perceived absence of distinctiveness, as de Sarno appeared to rely on the brand’s established symbols (such as the double G logo, floral patterns, and horse bits) without infusing them with his unique vision. Amid a slowdown in luxury market growth, Gucci reported disappointing results: by July 2024, sales had decreased by 18% compared to the first half of 2023, and operating profitability had nearly halved.
In fairness to de Sarno, the scale of the challenge was significant, and the director from Naples may not have been fully prepared for it. Gucci stands as Kering’s flagship brand, crucial to the group’s financial stability; by 2022, when luxury growth was still buoyed by the Chinese market, its annual sales surpassed €10 billion. Thus, the creative director of Gucci faces a pressing need for commercial success. Additionally, similar to Louis Vuitton, the brand targets a wide audience rather than a select group of ultra-wealthy clients, making it a more complex label to manage compared to others like Bottega Veneta or McQueen, which are also part of Kering.
Unexpected Candidates
Prior to his appointment at Gucci, de Sarno had not established himself as a creative director. He spent 14 years at Valentino, serving as the trusted assistant to designer Pierpaolo Piccioli. In this role, he garnered a strong reputation, which likely influenced Kering’s decision to hire him. His predecessor at Gucci, Alessandro Michele, also rose to prominence from a secondary position. When Michele, a native of Rome, assumed the creative director role, he showcased remarkable skill and creativity, revitalizing the brand to its former glory reminiscent of the Tom Ford era. Stepping into Michele’s shoes presented a significant challenge for de Sarno.
Since 2023, Gucci has experienced significant changes beyond its creative direction. CEO Marco Bizzarri was succeeded by Jean-François Palus, who was then replaced in October 2024 by Stefano Cantino, a former employee of Louis Vuitton. The marketing and communications leadership has also seen frequent turnover.
Currently, the management teams appear to have reached a level of stability, and de Sarno’s exit likely aligns with Cantino’s new strategic vision. The question of who might steer Gucci back to success has sparked considerable speculation. After initially opting for an unknown talent, it seems plausible that Gucci is now considering a high-profile figure. Hedi Slimane, who recently departed from Celine (LVMH), was once a candidate, but this possibility now appears unlikely. Maria Grazia Chiuri, who is currently with Dior Women (LVMH), is frequently mentioned, as is Piccioli, who has yet to assume a new role since leaving Valentino. However, Kering may also continue its trend of selecting unexpected candidates. Given the pressing need to rejuvenate the brand, a decision is anticipated soon.
The upcoming Gucci show in Milan will not be attributed to de Sarno but will instead be presented by the studio. This will also apply to the cruise collection set to debut on May 15 in Florence, the brand’s birthplace, where it showcases its archives. In the interim, returning to its roots appears to be a prudent strategy.
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