Do individuals experience anxiety when approaching a renowned design from a brand outside their own? This does not seem to be the case for shoemaker Christian Louboutin, who has teamed up this season with John Galliano and Maison Margiela to create iconic styles, including Margiela’s Tabi ballerina flats and Louboutin’s own Kate pumps. This collaboration was unveiled at the highly publicized Maison Margiela Artisanal Spring/Summer 2024 show, which marked Galliano’s final appearance as the artistic director of the house. The partnership emerged organically during a lunch meeting: “John and I have been friends for a long time, and one day, while we were having lunch, he suggested we collaborate. I immediately agreed, even without knowing the specifics, but that didn’t concern me,” Louboutin shared.
In this collaboration, Galliano embraced Louboutin’s signature red soles, while Louboutin reinterpreted the iconic “Tabi” silhouette, inspired by traditional Japanese slippers with their distinctive toe split, a design element that has been a staple in Martin Margiela’s collections since his debut on the runway in 1988. “To me, the Tabi should not be viewed merely as a split between the toes, akin to a mitten for hands, but rather as a décolleté, resembling a bird’s-eye view of a woman’s bust. It was essential that it did not pinch the skin between the toes and was comfortable to wear, as well as visually appealing. There are numerous inverted seams,” Louboutin explained.
Specifically, and in contrast to the conventional method of integrating the toe split into the vamp—the section of the shoe that covers the top of the foot—this iteration is crafted from two distinct pieces that are then joined to create the separation. This technique has been utilized in patent leather and rhinestone ballerina flats, referred to as “Marlougiela,” as well as in strappy high-heeled sandals named “Loubiella.” Meanwhile, Galliano infused Maison Margiela’s signature raw, deconstructed aesthetic into Louboutin’s designs.
This collection features the “Martinloula” design, a pointed pump with a rounded back that echoes the padded bustles seen on models from the Artisanal collection. Additionally, the unique silhouette of the Kate pump has been rebranded as “Martoubi 25” for this special occasion. “John infused the essence of Margiela into the Kate, elongating and deconstructing it, and with a bold brushstroke, he applied a splash of red at the back. This detail symbolizes the fusion of the pure white associated with Maison Margiela and Christian Louboutin’s iconic red. He created a beautifully chaotic design with this pump, which I find incredibly exciting!” remarked Louboutin.
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